Lake Merritt is the centre of Oakland in every sense — geographic, social and civic. It is a saltwater tidal lagoon in the middle of a city, ringed by a 3-mile path, and on a warm weekend it holds what is probably the most representative crowd in the Bay Area. It is also, and almost nobody knows this, the first official wildlife refuge in the United States.

This page covers the history that makes it significant, what is actually around the lake, how to get there, and the things visitors consistently miss.

The first wildlife refuge in America — 1870

The claim is precise and it holds up. Lake Merritt was designated the first official wildlife refuge in the United States in 1870, decades before the national wildlife refuge system existed.

It began as a tidal lagoon known as Laguna Peralta, fed by the Oakland estuary and rising and falling with the tide. Samuel Merritt, Oakland’s mayor from 1867 to 1869, had the lagoon dammed — converting an unstable tidal inlet into the stable saltwater lake you see now — and funded the dam and its culverts, which still control how much water moves in and out.

In 1869 he donated the lake and the land around it to the city as a wildlife preserve, and the refuge designation followed in 1870. The lake carries his name as a result.

That history is why the birdlife is what it is. Lake Merritt remains a genuine wintering site for migratory waterfowl, and the birds on the water are not incidental scenery — they are the reason the lake was protected in the first place.

The Necklace of Lights

The strings of lamps that outline the lake are a designated City of Oakland landmark and one of the most photographed things in the East Bay. The Necklace of Lights comprises 176 lampposts and 4,000 lights.

It was installed in 1925, switched off at the start of the Second World War, and then left to fall into disrepair for decades. It was renovated and restored in 1987 and has been lit since.

The practical advice: see the lake at dusk at least once. The Necklace at twilight, with the downtown skyline behind it, is the version of Lake Merritt that people remember, and it costs nothing.

The Gardens at Lake Merritt

Inside Lakeside Park on the lake’s northern edge, The Gardens at Lake Merritt hold eleven themed gardens across 7 acres — and they are free.

The one to seek out is the Bonsai garden, which is one of the best known in the United States. It is genuinely a serious collection rather than a municipal ornament, and it is the sort of thing that would be a paid attraction almost anywhere else.

The other ten themed gardens make the whole seven acres a proper hour rather than a quick look, and the gardens are considerably quieter than the lake path a hundred yards away.

On and around the water

Lakeside Park is the main green space on the lake, and it holds a boathouse. ⚠️ The boathouse has been reported as under renovation, so check its current status before planning around it rather than turning up expecting to hire a boat.

The Lake Merritt Sailboat House is the lake’s boating centre and the base for rowing and sailing on the water. Lake Merritt has a long tradition as a rowing lake, and the Lake Merritt Rowing Club is part of that.

The Lake Merritt Amphitheater hosts outdoor performance on the lakeside — worth checking what is on if you are visiting in warm weather.

The Lake Merritt Labyrinth is a quieter curiosity on the lakeside that most visitors walk straight past.

And the 3-mile path around the lake is the thing Oakland actually uses. It is flat, continuous and busy from early morning to late evening with runners, walkers, prams and dogs. Doing a full lap is the single best way to understand the city.

Getting there — take BART

The Lake Merritt BART station is the practical answer and it puts you a short walk from the lake’s southern end. Parking around the lake is limited and competitive at weekends, and there is genuinely no reason to drive when a station is this close.

From the station you can walk up to the lake path, into Lakeside Park and the Gardens, and on toward the Grand Avenue side without ever needing a car.

The lake also sits within easy walking distance of downtown Oakland, which makes it easy to combine with the rest of a day in the city.

What is around the lake

Grand Avenue and the Grand Lake district on the northeastern side is where the eating and shopping concentrate, and it is home to the city’s biggest market — the Grand Lake Farmers Market, held Saturdays, year-round, rain or shine, 9am to 2pm in Splash Pad Park at Grand Avenue and Lake Park Avenue. It runs about 100 vendors, and the park itself was designed by Oakland’s own Walter Hood. See the Oakland farmers markets guide.

The Oakland Museum of California sits just south of the lake and is the city’s major cultural institution. Check its current hours and admission directly rather than through a listing.

Downtown and Uptown are a short walk west, and Jack London Square is on the estuary beyond that.

How to do Lake Merritt properly

Walk the full 3-mile loop. Most visitors do a fragment near the Grand Avenue side and leave. The lake changes character completely around its circumference and the whole lap takes about an hour.

Come at dusk for the Necklace of Lights.

Go into the Gardens. Eleven themed gardens on seven acres, free, and far quieter than the path — with a nationally significant bonsai collection.

Take BART. Lake Merritt station, not a parking space.

Combine with a Saturday market. Grand Lake Farmers Market from 9am, then the lake.

Look at the birds. They are the reason the lake exists as a protected place, and the wintering waterfowl are genuinely worth a pause.

Lake Merritt through the day

The lake has three distinct characters and choosing the right one matters more than choosing where to stand.

Early morning belongs to runners and rowers. The water is flat, the birdlife is most active, and the path is busy but purposeful. If you want to photograph the lake without crowds, this is the window.

Weekend afternoons are the social version and the one Oakland is known for — the path full, music on the grass, vendors, and one of the most genuinely mixed public crowds anywhere in the Bay Area. It is loud and it is the point; do not come expecting tranquillity.

Dusk is the best of the three. The Necklace of Lights comes on, the crowd thins, and the downtown towers light up behind the water. This is the version worth planning for.

What visitors get wrong

Three things, consistently. They walk a fragment near Grand Avenue and leave, missing that the lake’s southern and western sides are completely different in feel. They never go into the Gardens, which are free, quiet and hold a nationally significant bonsai collection a hundred yards from the busiest stretch of path. And they drive, then spend twenty minutes looking for a space when BART puts them at the water’s edge.

The fourth, subtler one: people treat the birds as scenery. Lake Merritt is a working wintering site for migratory waterfowl and the reason the lake was protected in 1870. Stopping to actually look at what is on the water is the difference between a walk and an understanding of the place.

Lake Merritt questions, answered by neighbors

Is Lake Merritt really the first wildlife refuge in the US?

Yes. Lake Merritt was designated the first official wildlife refuge in the United States in 1870, well before the national wildlife refuge system existed. Samuel Merritt, Oakland’s mayor from 1867 to 1869, donated the lake and surrounding land to the city as a wildlife preserve in 1869.

Why is it called Lake Merritt?

It is named after Samuel Merritt, mayor of Oakland from 1867 to 1869. He had the tidal lagoon — then known as Laguna Peralta — dammed to create a stable saltwater lake, and funded the dam and its culverts. He donated the lake and the land around it to the city in 1869.

What is the Necklace of Lights?

The strings of lamps outlining Lake Merritt — 176 lampposts carrying 4,000 lights. They were installed in 1925, switched off at the start of the Second World War, fell into disrepair, and were renovated and restored in 1987. It is a designated City of Oakland landmark and best seen at dusk.

How long is the walk around Lake Merritt?

The path around the lake is about 3 miles and takes roughly an hour at a steady pace. It is flat and continuous, and it is busy with runners, walkers and dogs from early morning until late evening. Walking the full loop is the best way to see how the lake changes around its circumference.

Are the Gardens at Lake Merritt free?

Yes. The Gardens at Lake Merritt, in Lakeside Park, hold eleven themed gardens across 7 acres and are free to enter. The Bonsai garden is one of the best known in the United States and is the highlight.

How do I get to Lake Merritt?

Take BART to Lake Merritt station, which is a short walk from the lake’s southern end. Parking around the lake is limited and competitive at weekends. The lake is also within easy walking distance of downtown Oakland.

Can you go boating on Lake Merritt?

Lake Merritt has a long rowing and sailing tradition, centred on the Sailboat House and the Lake Merritt Rowing Club. Lakeside Park also has a boathouse, though it has been reported as under renovation — check its current status before planning a visit around it.

What is there to do around Lake Merritt?

The 3-mile lake path, the Gardens at Lake Merritt, the Lake Merritt Amphitheater and the labyrinth are all on or beside the water. The Grand Lake Farmers Market runs Saturdays 9am to 2pm at Splash Pad Park nearby, and the Oakland Museum of California sits just south of the lake.